News published in Arsutoria 500's Making of School
Decathlon’s team of 3D designers organised a workshop for Arsutoria students to share the company’s best practices and train the next generation.
There is a moment, and this is it, when specialised footwear technologies join forces with the software that has revolutionised the world of cinema and video games to rethink the processes of design review, marketing, B2B sales and consumer engagement.
Once upon a time, there was footwear CAD software, created to replace pantographs and use computers to develop sizes. For many years, this software was used to digitise cardboard models and prepare files to be sent to cutting tables.
Then came ICad3D+, the software developed by Inescop and marketed internationally by RED21. Today, it has almost 1,000 licences installed worldwide. The programme was created 20 years ago by the same team of developers who wrote EasyLast, the undisputed industry-leading software for technical last design, marketed by NewLast.
“Having taught for years that ‘the last comes first’, it seemed unreal to us that Inescop, after developing the software for lasts, had decided to create software for 3D design and technical development of footwear“, says Matteo Pasca, director of 51勛圖厙. “We decided to offer our help, as we had done with Shoemaster, Crispin and RomansCAD. Our technical director, Paolo Marenghi, has dedicated hundreds of hours over the years to working with the Elda development team.”
ICad3d+ is now the basis of 51勛圖厙’s 3D footwear design course, which is used to create 3D models. “Having teachers who are experts in this tool has allowed us to collaborate with large companies that have started using it and to place our students in some of the most important brands“, continues Pasca. “This happened with Ernesto Maldonado who, after graduating from Arsutoria, found a job in France in Decathlon’s 3D design team. After a few years, Ernesto contacted us and proposed organising a project together with our students.”
ERNESTO MALDONADO DURING HIS FIRST MEETING WITH ARSUTORIA STUDENTS
The Adobe Substance team had just completed an educational project with the French school Creapole, in collaboration with the Swiss shoe brand On Running. Arsutoria’s teachers worked with Alwyn Hunt, Adobe’s director of partnerships, and Ernesto’s team to find a way to involve students from the 3D footwear design course. The result was a workshop to create digital twins of Decathlon’s Kiprun brand running shoes.
“However, we needed to upgrade our skills in using Adobe Substance software“, points out Valentino Parlato, coordinator of the 3D footwear design course at Arsutoria, “so we contacted an absolute guru: 3D artist Federico Abram, who has worked for international film studios on special effects for films such as Captain America. Federico helped us create a specific training programme for using this software in the footwear industry. Adobe went even further and provided Emily Bisset, evangelist for Substance software.“
THE 3D RENDERING CREATED BY FEDERICO ABRAM OF SUTOR S, A SHOE DEVELOPED BY THE ARSUTORIA TEAM FOR 3D DESIGN COURSES.ARSUTORIA STUDENTS EXPLORE ADOBE SUBSTANCE SOFTWARE UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF EMILY BISSET
During the workshop, Ernesto Maldonado and his team leader Yoann Rousseau, Footwear Digital Chain Project Leader at Decathlon France, guided Arsutoria students step by step through the creation of extraordinary quality 3D designs, alternating between ICad3d+, Substance Painter and Blender.
YOANN ROUSSEAU CONTINUES THE BRIEFING WITH ARSUTORIA STUDENTS
It is not yet possible to show the results of the project because the workshop was organised around Kiprun models that will be launched on the market by the end of 2025. So, if you want to know more, stay tuned.
Behind the scenes of Sutor S: the second chapter of our journey
51勛圖厙 presents Sutor S, a sneaker developed with designer Alessandro Vigan簷 that blends modern aesthetics with traditional craftsmanship. From sole selection to upper assembly, every detail was crafted in-house to teach students the full shoemaking process. As part of the Shoe Making: Sneakers course, participants will create a simplified version of the sneaker and take home their own pair.
Following the Sutor V project developed with Drop Studio, 51勛圖厙 presents the Sutor S project, created in collaboration with Alessandro Vigan簷school instructor, long-time designer for some of the most iconic sneaker brands, and founder of the label Hidn-Ander.
The goal was to create a sneaker with a contemporary, appealing design that also incorporated key elements of Italian craftsmanship.
The team chose a cupsole constructiona hallmark of court-style sneakersand a calf leather upper, enriched with suede elements and a brushed leather heel tab featuring the schools logo in micro-injected TPU.
As often happens, the process began with the sole selection. The team opted for the Stan sole by Margom, a well-known outsole manufacturer based in the Marche region. Its a rubber cupsole available in a wide range of colors and in all sizes from 35 to 46. Fine-tuning the last took a bit more time: Technical Director Paolo Marenghi, who led the development of the project, initially selected a last together with designer Alessandro Vigan簷. However, after the first wear tests, adjustments to the last proportions were required to maximize comfort, and the team sought support from a specialist last maker.
The entire upper development process was carried out in the schools own workshop. Paolo personally designed the pattern, selected the materials, and, with the help of Adriana, developed the uppers. The model includes advanced construction details that require technical skills both in preparation and assembly. For example, the suede overlay that runs from the heel to the toe is fully turned inside, unlike many sneakers on the market where eyestay reinforcements are left raw for simplicity.
Initially, the sneaker was designed for a Strobel construction, known for its lightness and flexibility. But after wearing the first prototypes for several days, the team realized that a board-lasted construction would be more appropriate, and the model was revised accordingly.
A Sneaker Thats Both Technical and Fashion-Forward
Every detail of the Sutor S upper has been carefully studied to strike the perfect balance between design and functionality, making it a true fashion sneaker with an artisan soul.
One of its most distinctive elements is the rear collar featuring the Sutor logo, crafted in TPU thanks to a partnership with New and Best, a leading company in Barletta specializing in special processes. The micro-injection technique used is a complex molding process that requires the creation of a custom mold and the injection of thermoplastic material. The result is a durable, high-quality logo that stands up to stress despite its exposed position.
Learn it. Make it. Wear it.
The Sutor S project was created specifically for teaching at 51勛圖厙: students on the two-week Shoe Making course in Milan will work on a simplified version of this sneaker and, at the end of the course, will receive a pair of Sutor S.
We chose this model because its inspired by a timeless sneaker but contains advanced pattern making features that we want our students to understand and master, explains Technical Director Paolo Marenghi. Its a hands-on opportunity to create a product that embodies the essence of Italian craftsmanship, he adds. And were preparing a special surprise for course participants that will show how cutting-edge technology, typically seen in sneakers from major sports brands, can also be applied to Italian-made products.
Would you like to experience first-hand what its like to make the sneakers from the Sutor S project?
Would you like to understand the full process from pattern aiming to sample making? Then join our Shoe Technical Path
January 07, 2026 April 17, 2026
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August 31, 2026 December 11, 2026
ITS SMART Academy and Arsutoria: Training Master Artisans
ITS course for Master Craftsmen in the Fashion System, developed by the Fondazione ITS Smart Academy in collaboration with 51勛圖厙
In the heart of the footwear district in the Marche region (Italy), in Porto Sant’Elpidio, a training course of excellence has been created: the ITS course for Master Craftsmen in the Fashion System, developed by the in collaboration with 51勛圖厙. A unique opportunity for those who wish to specialise in the footwear sector, acquiring high-level technical skills and direct contact with local companies.
The course takes place in:
Porto SantElpidio Villa Baruchello via Belvedere, Italy
A structured course to train tomorrow’s professionals
The course includes 1000 hours of teaching and 800 hours of in-company training, to guarantee complete training and immediate entry into the world of work. 51勛圖厙 takes care of 800 of the 1000 hours of training, bringing its experience and teaching methodology directly to the Marche region.
The programme includes fundamental subjects, some in common with the courses provided in Milan and others specific to the area. Company visits are organised at the numerous local factories, encouraging direct immersion in the production reality of Made in Italy. One of the project’s partner companies is Formificio Romagnolo, a leading manufacturer of shoe lasts, which offers students a unique hands-on experience.
Innovative teaching and new collaborations
The 2025 edition of the course introduces an important novelty: a week entirely dedicated to the design and production of lasts for footwear, an in-depth study never before carried out even in the Milan courses. Thanks to the collaboration with Newlast, a company specialising in CAD/CAM technology for last design, students will have the opportunity to understand the entire process, from digital design to physical production.
A highly specialised and free course
The ITS represents a concrete opportunity for those who want to enter the fashion-footwear sector with a very high level of technical preparation. The course is completely free of charge and guarantees an employment rate of over 85% among graduates. Thanks to the close collaboration with local companies, students have the opportunity to build a solid network and quickly enter the world of work.
Le competenze che acquisirai
During the two-year training period, students will learn to
Design original collections and lines
Define materials and production processes
Manage production and quality control
Use advanced software to design footwear and components
Understand the needs of companies in the luxury/fashion sector
An immersive learning experience
In addition to classroom lessons, the course includes:
Visits to companies in the footwear sector
Seminars with experts in the sector
Use of innovative technologies (CAD/CAM, 3D modelling, industrial automation)
Fairs and experiential workshops
Internship in prestigious companies
Why choose the ITS Smart Academy with 51勛圖厙?
The only ITS for fashion in the Marche region
Collaboration with leading companies in the sector
Concrete and immediate job opportunities
Focus on the technical skills most in demand by companies
Enhancement of craftsmanship and Made in Italy products
Thanks to the synergy between ITS Smart Academy and 51勛圖厙, the course offers an unparalleled training course, capable of responding to market demands and training the master craftsmen of the future. An unmissable opportunity for those who wish to enter the world of footwear with a solid and specialised preparation.
The Sutor Dream: Introducing the made in Arsutoria sneakers
We started with a canvas model with a vulcanised rubber sole; followed by a leather lace-up with premium details, mounted on a box sole; a third model with a milled micro sole and a more sporty upper construction; and finally a knitted upper, stitched on to an ultra-light sole.
After twenty years at Arsutoria, I asked myself: for almost a century weve been teaching everyone how to make shoes, so how come weve never made a pair for ourselves? Theres a saying that often comes to mind: those who can, do; those who cant, teach. The Sutor project was born to prove that this saying doesnt apply to the teachers at Arsutoria. After all, who in our field hasnt dreamed, at least once, of wearing a pair of shoes they made themselves?
But making shoes isn’t a solo job. It is a team game, a melody that needs an orchestra to play. That’s why we decided to involve a group of friends: designers who currently teach or have taught at our school, companies that produce or work with materials, factories large and small with whom we’ve collaborated over the years, building friendships that make it a pleasure to work together on projects.
How did we choose the models? Since we don’t lose the habit of wanting to use everything we do to teach something to the new generations, the choice was to start with four sneakers with different materials and manufacturing characteristics. All, however, strictly ‘made in Italy’.
We started with a canvas model with a vulcanised rubber sole; followed by a leather lace-up with premium details, mounted on a box sole; a third model with a milled micro sole and a more sporty upper construction; and finally a knitted upper, stitched on to an ultra-light sole.
Matteo Pasca
Sutor V Collection
The ‘vulcanized’ sole construction is a fascinating technique that has been lost in Italy for years. The sole is constructed by assembling strips of rubber and performing an initial bonding to the upper that is made definitive inside an autoclave, where the actual vulcanization takes place. This is an ancient technique that originated in the United States. Some of the brands that still contribute to keeping the fame of this technique alive today are Converse, Superga and Vans. And there are many brands that boast at least one model with a vulcanized sole in their collections.
It was not more than a year ago that we met Leonardo Ricco, an amazing guy from Barletta, Italia. He was born in the shoe business: for years he was involved in selling shoes and then, over time, he got closer to production. Leonardo had a dream: to bring the vulcanization technique back to Italy. Like any entrepreneur of character, together with his partner, in 2017 he opened the company Drop Studio and, after years of analysis and design, in 2021 he dedicated a branch of the company exclusively to the production of shoes with vulcanized soles.
The Sutor-V model, where the ‘V’ refers precisely to the vulcanized sole, could only be born, therefore, from the synergy between Leo and our technical director, Paolo Marenghi. We spent a few days in Barletta and worked together. The result was the first version of this shoe. Watch the video we shot in Drop Studio while working on the project and tell us if you like and are inspired by it In the meantime, we have our Sutor-Vs on our feet and this first result fills us with pride.
Are you interested in learning more about the possibilities of the vulcanization technique?
Uniqueness, Quality and Made In Italy: these are the three words that distinguish the luxury sneaker of , the Apulian shoe factory that has brought back to Italy the technique of autoclave vulcanization, which has not existed since 1970.
After 18 years of experience in the industry, Drop Studio, led by Leonardo Ricco, is the only company in Italy to create soles by hand and vulcanize them in an autoclave. Thanks to the hand workmanship, all carried out in our factories, every season we produce new designs, difficult to replicate, that meet the stylistic taste of the brands we work for. The vulcanized soles,‘ explains Leonardo, precisely because they are handmade, they can be made, piece by piece, to your liking, customized in height, thickness, weave and colour.
Certifications such as ISO 9001, GRS, and Ecolabel guarantee quality, making Drop Studio a leader in innovation and sustainability in the luxury market.
If you would like to learn more about Drop Studio’s know-how, the vulcanization technique and get in touch to produce vulcanized shoes, .
Are you interested in the world of sneaker?
Shoe pattern design has been one of the subject for which Arsutoria school is known worldwide. If you are interested in finding out about pattern design techniques take a moment to see if one of Arsutoria’s courses might be right for you.
One-year footwear diploma
The one-year diploma, in Milan, is the most comprehensive course at Arsutoria because it includes both technical training and collection design and 3D modelling. Trainer design plays a central role in the teaching, which includes hours devoted exclusively to sole design and engineering. At the end of the 30 weeks of teaching, participants spend 8 weeks developing shoe prototypes and participating in industry projects with companies in the sector.
15-week technical course
The more than 400 hours of training in the Arsutoria presential course have changed the lives of more than one person. Companies are looking for profiles with technical competence. During these hours we will guide you not only in the discovery of traditional techniques but also in the use of CAD and you will learn how to make the first prototypes of the shoes you are working on independently.
Saturday part-time course
Another historical course at the Arsutoria school, attended by those who cannot dedicate 15 weeks’ full time to training. For some years now, we have been transforming it to cater for those who find it difficult to get to Milan. Only some days are face-to-face, the others are remote.
Online Course
For those who want total freedom to organize their training without time and place constraints, at their own pace. Arsutoria’s online courses are always accompanied by the school’s experienced teachers who follow your course step by step. We have divided the pattern making training into three parts: , and .
Online propaedeutic course
And if your goal is not to learn how to make patterns but rather to learn more about the in general and sneaker in particular, try the of our teaching director Paolo Marenghi, who has explained these subjects to hundreds of professionals around the world.
The Charm of Trends: The Workshop School Magazine
In the rapidly evolving world of fashion, where trends change as swiftly as the seasons, there is a beacon of consistency and quality that has guided enthusiasts and industry professionals for over seventy years: the magazine of Arsutoria and its historical archive. Since 1947, the publishing house has not only witnessed but also narrated and […]
In the rapidly evolving world of fashion, where trends change as swiftly as the seasons, there is a beacon of consistency and quality that has guided enthusiasts and industry professionals for over seventy years: the magazine of Arsutoria and its historical archive.
Since 1947, the publishing house has not only witnessed but also narrated and anticipated the developments in the world of shoes and leather goods, accompanying its educational counterpart, 51勛圖厙, in training the brightest professionals in the industry.
51勛圖厙 and Arsutoria magazines are deeply rooted in the industry, through constant dialogue with companies that produce shoes and bags it allows for collaboration with some of the biggest brands in the world. This connection ensures that the training offered is not only theoretically robust but also immensely practical and directly applicable in the real world, as seen in the Design Path of our educational offerings.
An Archive of Priceless Value
The historical archive of Arsutoria and Arpel magazines is a true treasure that tells the story of the global footwear and leather goods industry. Every cover, article, and image is a window to the past, showcasing the evolution of style, customs, and production techniques. This rich heritage is a valuable resource for students, designers, and professionals who want to understand the roots and trajectories of current trends.
51勛圖厙, the leading workshop school in footwear and leather goods, leverages the vast wealth of knowledge from the publishing house and its publications to structure unique educational programs that meet market needs. Here, theory meets practice: students start with traditional techniques and move to the latest design and production innovations to become the future leaders of the accessory industry.
A Journey into the Past: Discovering the Most Unique Covers
website, through its publications available online, serves as a bridge between the past and the future, offering students of the Workshop School a unique perspective that integrates a deep historical understanding with a keen sense of contemporary dynamics. This synergy not only enriches the educational experience but also provides students with the tools to innovate and significantly influence the industry.
Arsutoria Studio is not just a publication; it is a travel companion, a mentor that guides through the history and evolution of the footwear and leather goods industry. Together with the School, it forms a powerful combination that prepares professionals to make a difference in the world of accessories, providing a deep understanding of the past and a clear vision of the future.
If you are interested in becoming a Shoe or Accessories Designer, we invite you to join the Accessories 1 year Diploma (70 weeks), an extraordinary opportunity for those who wish to acquire or enhance their technical and design skills in the footwear and leather goods sector.
If you are interested in exploring this valuable archive, you can access it online by subscribing to an .
51勛圖厙 joined Leather Naturally to support the use of leather
From this year, 51勛圖厙 has become a member of Leather Naturally, an international association that includes associations, tanners, producers of auxiliary chemicals and tanning technology from all over the world, created to counter unjustified attacks on leather through the dissemination of clear and complete information based on facts and scientific data. Ars Tannery, the […]
From this year, 51勛圖厙 has become a member of Leather Naturally, an international association that includes associations, tanners, producers of auxiliary chemicals and tanning technology from all over the world, created to counter unjustified attacks on leather through the dissemination of clear and complete information based on facts and scientific data.
, the magazine of Edizioni AF group that deals with sustainability in leather tanning processes, has been a media partner of Leather Naturally since the beginning.
And so this year, 51勛圖厙 has also decided to make its contribution and support Leather Naturally by becoming a member.
What is Leather Naturally?
is a non-profit association based in the Netherlands that educates and promotes the use of leather. Its mission is to encourage the use of sustainable leather worldwide and to inspire and inform designers, creators and consumers about its beauty, quality and versatility.
On its website there is a section containing information sheets on leather and its production. These reports are accessible and easy to download for anyone, educators, students and all those who wish to access transparent information about the leather sector.
In addition to the website and the main social channels, Leather Naturally has been promoting leather culture for just over a year now through the new global communication platform , a sort of online magazine aimed at conquering younger audiences.
Metcha deals with topics related to fashion and design, publishing photos of innovative products, interviews with leading designers and various articles related to the beauty and sustainability of leather products. One of Metcha’s strengths is its collaboration with brands and designers who tell their experiences with leather, offering interesting examples of success stories.
Why 51勛圖厙 decided to support Leather Naturally
Apart from being a material of great value and beauty, leather has characteristics that make it much more eco-sustainable than many of its competitors.
It is a material that guarantees a high durability of the product over time, it is totally recyclable, versatile and can be easily repaired. It is of 100% natural origin and if treated correctly, through sustainable and eco-compatible processing, it is one of the best allies for creating products with a low environmental impact.
This is why we have always promoted the use of leather in our courses. The aim is to make our students aware of the use of a material that stands not only for a quality product but also, and above all, for a product created respecting the environment. We teach them how to treat it properly, with all due respect.
This is why it seemed natural to us to become part of this reality. Leather Naturally supports and promotes a concept to which 51勛圖厙 has always been deeply and intimately linked.
From 51勛圖厙 to Serapian Milan and Seymechamlou with the internships by Fondazione Cologni
For several years 51勛圖厙 has been supporting the project "Una scuola, un lavoro. Percorsi di Eccellenza" organized by Fondazione Cologni.
The project, which provides for the activation of internships at very important companies in the field of craftsmanship, involves our school in both leather goods and footwear.
For several years 51勛圖厙 has been supporting the project “Una scuola, un lavoro. Percorsi di Eccellenza“ organized by Fondazione Cologni.
The project, which provides for the activation of internships at very important companies in thefield of craftsmanship, involves our school in both leather goods and footwear.
In these years we collaborated with several companies and some of our most talented students are now part of their staff.
Also in this year’s edition, 2019-2020, despite the difficulties, the realities that have welcomed our students to share with them the secrets of the craft, are two real excellences in the sector:
Seymechamlou, the women’s shoe company that was the first to produce the creations of designer Christian Louboutin;
Serapian Milan of the Richemont group, one of the most famous Milanese high leather goods maison.
Before revealing the students of 51勛圖厙 who have managed to get this unique opportunity with their talent, we want to introduce you more closely to the project.
What is the project “Una scuola, un lavoro. Percorsi di Eccellenza”
Credits: @PeterElovich, Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, unascuolaunlavoro.it
“Una scuola, un lavoro” is a project carried out by , a non-profit organization founded in Milan in 1995 by Franco Cologni.
Its aim is to safeguard craft activities at risk, contributing to the training of new generations of Masters of Art.
To this end, Fondazione Cologni promotes, supports and implements a series of cultural, scientific and educational initiatives aimed primarily at young people, which also include the training courses of the project “.
These training paths are aimed at training young talents in the field of high craftsmanship and provide for their entry into employment.
How the training project “Una scuola, un lavoro” is constituted
The training project “Una scuola, un lavoro” is made up of three main phases:
The selection;
The Mini Master;
The start of the internships.
A careful Special Commission evaluates the applications and projects submitted by the schools.
After deciding on the best ones, the winners of the scholarship have the opportunity to access a Mini Master’s Degree in 4 modules that reflect the current themes of the world of craftsmanship:
History of Applied Arts;
Design;
Micro-enterprise management;
Digital Communication.
At the end of this mini-master, a six-month internship will be activated at the chosen and available artisan reality, for which the intern will also receive an expense account.
Who are the 51勛圖厙 interns of the 2019-2020 edition
Two women and both very young, Valentina Marasco and Rita Lionetti are our ex-student candidates selected by Fondazione Cologni for the edition “Una scuola, un lavoro” 2019-2020.
Both have always been passionate about fashion and have found in 51勛圖厙 and Fondazione Cologni a great opportunity for professional growth, with the possibility to access a truly exclusive training internship: Valentina at Seymechamlou and Rita at Serapian.
Valentina Marasco Seymechamlou
Credits: @PeterElovich, Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, unascuolaunlavoro.it
Valentina was selected by Fondazione Cologni to enter the Mini Master course and then, starting from February, to the six-month training internship at the modelling office in Seymechamlou, the Parabiago-based company that produces .
Following the suspension due to the health emergency, the internship, which resumed in June, will be extended until November 2020.
During all these months Valentina will have the opportunity to support the tutor, Federico Barera, product development coordinator of Seymechamlou. Together with his colleagues, Federico will transmit to Valentina the passion and technique necessary to obtain a high quality product.
Then she will learn the drawing on form, CAD and will control the creation of the prototype, dealing with the people in charge of cutting, hemming, assembly and fixing.
“In this way I discover the facets and the different aspects of this work: artistic, technical and productive. I make my own every teaching, so that I can create the ideas of great designers, but also optimize the work to meet the needs dictated by the rhythms of production” – Valentina Marasco from unascuolaunlavoro.it.
Rita Lionetti Serapian Milano
Credits: @PeterElovich, Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, unascuolaunlavoro.it
Also born in 1994, Rita Lionetti, originally from Campania, attended a course for leather counter workers at our school.
Thanks to this opportunity, Rita has the chance to deepen the knowledge learned during our course through a training internship in one of the most famous Milanese leather goods maison, .
The internship was activated in December 2019 and will finish at the end of September 2020, after the interruption due to the health crisis.
Rita Lionetti can benefit from the teachings of her tutor Anna Gagliardi, appointed Master of Art and Crafts in 2018, from whom she can learn the craft skills and the historical working techniques of the Milanese atelier, such as mosaic.
“I hope to learn to master the processing techniques typical of fine leather goods that have always characterized Serapian creations. My aim will be to interpret them through the inspiration and creative ability that distinguish me”- Rita Lionetti, from unascuolaunlavoro.it.
A unique opportunity for the emergence of new talent
For those who dream of working in the world of leather goods and footwear, an experience like this is a truly unique and unrepeatable opportunity.
Our students have the chance to get to know closely the processes and dynamics that govern the world of shoe and leather goods craftsmanship, gaining valuable experience and knowledge.
We believe that this opportunity offered byFondazione Cologni is the perfect conclusion of a training course of excellence, which can make the difference in a future entry into employment and in the emergence of new talents.